@Clint
Well, maybe it depends on the style and/or duration of playing, environment, who knows. The small hole on my Sylphyo is open since we dicussed this. Actually I forgot to glue the ring to the main case after re-assembling the instrument. Occasionally I lift the blue ring and it is always dry, so is the edge of the housing. Now I think, I should rather let the hole open for ventilation, in case some moisture comes from the electronics compartment underneath.

From a physical point of view, it seems logical to seal the hole. At least if you assume that moist air can condense on the metal ring. With my Sylphyo, however, there is no moisture on the ring, so I leave the hole open. But I have to say that I don't play sessions as long as you do and always under the same conditions in my home studio.

Perhaps I shouldn't have presented my method as a recommendation. It's just what works here.

@zikojr
Anyone with a little mechanical skill and electronic knowledge can replace the battery. The blue ring at the top of the Sylphyo is originally attached with a little hot glue. Remove the ring (possibly with the help of hot air), open the Sylphyo and solder in a new battery. Screw the instrument back together and fix the ring with a little hot glue (or not). If you glue, do not cover the small rectangular slot. Two dots of glue on the solid edge will do.

The battery is industry standard:
Lithium-ion Cell
Type 18650 protected (!!!)
3000 mA or more

Thank you for the update!
Is there something else changed, apart from the new sounds?
Regarding the company thing, well, what can I say - Bonne chance à tous !

Lithium-ion Cell
Type 18650 protected (!!!)
3000 mA or more

Ah, you have the labeling on the plugs. Yes, then the shrink tubing can be used without removing the plugs :-)

I have a cheap Brother labeling machine (P-Touch D210, up to 12 mm). The normal tapes come off plugs and cables. I tried a flexi-tape, which has held up so far. But shrink-wrap is certainly better.

Your wiring looks good, and you are taking nice photos!

@Clint said in Controlling the channels that the Link Synth responds to:

and cover most of those labels with clear heat shrink-wrap

What do you use for that? I don't suppose you'll remove the plugs for labeling. But what shrink wrap can you wrap around the cable?

I think 90 minutes is ok for the setup, there are a lot of small parts that need to be unpacked and well positioned, for audio you need gain staging, hum-free cabling, etc.

With the BomeBox it will hardly be any faster, the box offers more technical than practical advantages. There will be fewer DIN cables, but hubs and their power supplies will be added, as well as a MIDI interface. All in all, it may be the same clutter, but the star-shaped structure is more logical and better for the head. We can switch our brains between technology and art, but a structure that is as systematic as possible, helps.

Incidentally, I never have any problems with the Aodyo Link. At first I wanted to use everything it could (perhaps) do, but that wasn't a good idea. Since it's been connected to the USB hub and only the two audio outputs are plugged in, it simply always works.

Here is an example for a part of your setup in star configuration:

Everything is connected to the BomeBox. The Push 3 is the control center and tells the BomeBox what to do with all the ports and data. It can also send data on it's own.

There is no need to route DIN MIDI through the Aodyo Link or any other synth.

The MIDI Interface for the VL70-m is not critical, a fast and simple one like MIDItech 2x2 or 4x4 would do it.

If one group of devices is close to you and another is further away, simply give the remote devices their own, smaller USB hub that you plug into the main hub on the BomeBox. Cascading is no problem. All active hubs of course, then the power supply for the newer small devices is taken care of at the same time.

The BomeBox has many more options. But compared to your current setup, there is a layer in between. You are no longer directly connected to the devices, but are dependent on your programming of the BomeBox. It may sound strange, but it feels more abstract in operation than the daisy-chain with three times as many visible cables.

You need time. Everything changes. Cabling, power supply, etc. You have to figure out how best to program the BomeBox. Switching presets, converting CCs, MIDI channels.

You can convert the Sylphyo's performance data (roll, elevate, compass) in the BomeBox for each synth in order to trigger meaningful actions there without changing anything in the Sylphyo itself.

… mmh …

1. Channel Filter
   According to the manual, Link (Sylphyo) channels affect outgoing data. An input filter is not mentioned. However, my Link (Sylphyo) is set to channel 9 and when I send MIDI directly to the Link, it responds to Notes and Program Changes on channels 1-9 and is deaf for higher channel numbers. So the input is filtered somehow, but I almost doubt that this is intentional. You may try to set the Link (Sylphyo) to channel 1 and check if higher channels go through without changing anything in the Link. But if this works, will it still work after perhaps a firmware update has arrived at some time?

2. MIDI Thru
   My first setup was mostly daisy-chain and the Link was part of it. It did not work well. Maybe I overloaded the Link with SysEx or too much data or mangled events otherwise. My Eventide devices had similar problems. MIDI Clock was a disaster. The setup was unreliable, almost unusable.

… mmh …

Honestly, I wouldn't use the Link for MIDI Thru, but rather operate it as a single device. Especially with the level of support we are currently receiving for Sylphyo and Link.

I don't know if my method can give you any ideas, but below you see my current setup, consequently in star/parallel configuration. The computer and the BomeBox each have their own worlds and can work independently of each other.

My control center is the LaunchPad and also within the BomeBox domain. This is where I decide which controller goes to which destination. It activates/deactivates presets in the BomeBox that do the routing and channel- and CC conversion.

I no longer have any devices that only have MIDI DIN ports, but I would integrate them in a similar way. MIDI mergers and splitters are not ideal and relatively expensive. I think it's better to add a small MIDI interface to get to USB/BomeBox than to loop MIDI serially through several devices and hope that they don't make nonsense.

According to technical specifications in the website and "Rear Panel" description in the manual, the outputs are "mono jacks".

This usually means type TS = Tip/Sleeve = not balanced.