I have to buy everything.
I want this garage!

@Clint
Yes, if the screw just loosened, you can tighten it.
There are more like it on the Sylphyo, you should check them all.

The tool is called "Torx" or TX.
Quite common. From above it looks like a star.
Mine has the size "T10" engraved.

You can buy this tools as Bits or as complete screwdrivers or as wrenches.
The sets often include unusual shapes that can help repair equipment.
If you don't have such things, I recomment a solid box with assorted bits
and a Bit holder, preferably in SAE and metric sizes.

If you feel luxurious right now, you can look on Amazon for "iFixit Manta Driver Kit".
That is quite universal for household and electronics.
Or look directly at ifixit.com

Here is the prototype of my low-humidity container, which is supposed to keep the Sylphyo protected and reasonably dry. Seems to work, the long-term test is still pending.

The case is from Ebay, it's built by a hobby carpenter for displaying model cars and trains, and is originally intended for horizontal use. I just treated the raw plywood with linseed oil varnish.

At both ends the manufacturer provides acrylic glass plates, additionally I inserted two small wooden boards with holes. I put the Sylphyo only dry in, nevertheless at the lower board a usual kitchen sponge cloth lies, in order to catch possible dripping from the instrument. The small faces of the acrylic compartments and wooden boards have gaskets that rub lightly against the large acrylic faceplate. In fact, the gaskets are slotted sheats of audio cables.

To put the Sylphyo in or take it out, I slide the front panel up. The mouthpiece has its holder right above the Sylphyo’s body to remind me not to put it in with the mouthpiece on. The USB cable goes into the box at the back.

The construction is pretty tight, though not airtight in the technical sense. I trust the microclimate. If it works, I will probably screw the case to the wall. I have to add that I don't live in a very humid climate (Austria, Central Europe). With wooden instruments, for example, we rather have problems not letting them dry out from room heating over the cold season.

I hope the Sylphyo will feel comfortable in its new home, until now it had to hang in a cloth bag on a shelf.

Total cost:
Wooden box with acrylic glass panes from Ebay: €70 ($76)
1 kg (2.2 lb) silica gel from Amazon: €20 ($22)
Two nice bowls for the desiccant from the kitchen supply store: €8 ($9)
The other material like small plywood boards, some screws and linseed oil varnish I had at home.

We already had a short discussion about this controller in this forum:
Robkoo R1

@reidid789
Ah, I just read in the (planned) specifications that the Photon has adjustable airflow. Mechanically, I hope. If it comes close to the Sylphyo with that, it's impressive with the other features.

Then again, I wonder why I would put such a thing on the Sylphyo. We'll see if imoxplus really brings out the Photon and for which instruments there will be adapters. Aodyo has to programme the interface and their priorities seem to be elsewhere at the moment. But let's look hopefully into the future, maybe they are working on it right now and will be ready when imoxplus has the lost chips again :-)

Slowly, slowly... one strength of the Sylphyo is its very special sensitivity to airflow, which makes it probably the only wind controller that can really sound like a wind instrument. Of course, many of us would like something like the Photon mouthpiece, but it would make the Sylphyo a different instrument because the Sylphyo’s sensor is bypassed and the airflow is measured differently.

For me, it would be fine to be able to use the Sylphyo in two configurations. But I am not sure if I would still like to have these strange touch surfaces of the Sylphyo together with the Photon mouthpiece. I think with the Photon I would like mechanical buttons/flaps better. Special functions like sucking as a separate event are of course great, especially for experimental music.

But even though the Photon mouthpiece promises many features, I would actually prefer to have a better version of the Yamaha WX mouthpiece on the Sylphyo. To let the air flow through and to transmit the position and movement of the reed into the prepared slot to the Sylphyo electronics.

Thanks, now I can take a closer look and find a solution for myself.

Perfect!
I will send my Sylphyo to you in the future, you do it much nicer than me.

@Clint
You're right. I did a little research on the web regarding the storage of circuit boards and electronic components and learned the basics pretty quickly: keep the parts dry or they will fail. Of course there are technical details, but I think as musicians we can simplify things and keep our electronic instruments dry with the same conscientiousness as we avoid drying out wooden instruments.

Which products do you use for your 3D printing material?

@Clint said:

I am not sure what the air-path is that you are describing here:

"the inner gap between the housing and the blue ring."

If you look inside the main tube with the blue ring on, you will see a gap between the ring and the Sylphyo's body. The upper part of the Sylphyo is not airtight and it doesn't have to be, because the mouthpiece seals the main tube when pushed in, making the instrument playable. Only in your case does this seem to be a problem because the small channel to the electronics is not completely closed. Even with the mouthpiece in place, moisture can get in over time, but with the mouthpiece off, moisture will definitely get in there. As Laurent said, the hole to the electronics compartment needs to be sealed.

@Clint said:

Since I have no experience with Hot Glue, I have many concerns with attempting to seal the active mouthpiece port.

Will I melt the plastic of the body of the Sylphyo?

No. The melting point of hot glue is lower than that of the Sylphyo.

@Clint said:

Will I drip glue into the active mouthpiece port and into the Zone of Electronics?

No. Hot glue is too thick for the small hole. It won't go in easily.

@Clint said:

Will some undreamt-of calamity befall my Syphyo in my fledgling attempts at Hot Glue Art and I'll be left playing a kazoo at gigs.

No. And as we know, Kazoos have moisture problems :-)

@Peter-Ostry said:

Let it warm up and try a few times somewhere else, then you can go for the Sylphyo. If it doesn't work right away, just let it cool down and pull away with your fingers. If you put the blue ring on immediately afterwards, it's fixed just like Aodyo did.

That was an awkward description. I meant that you immediately put the blue ring on the hot glue to fix it. Only if the glue application is unsuccessful, you allow the glue to cool briefly and remove it. The glue is softer than the Sylphyo and it doesn't attack the plastic. It's a mechanical bond, not a chemical bond.

I'm sorry if I sound incomprehensible at times. My English is not good enough for technical precision and Google Translate is smart, but from what I can see it cannot be trusted for technical subjects.

@Clint said:

I believe that the O-Ring on my black mouthpiece does not make a perfect seal, since there is a very slight wobble in my mouthpiece when it is fully seated. Not a problem playing, but maybe there is a slight moist air leak back up underneath the blue ring.

Maybe yes. But "slight wobble"? I would say my mouthpiece fits quite well, at least as well as you can expect from a piece of plastic with an O-ring. The conical shape is well done. My spare mouthpiece fits the same way. However, I think two O-rings would be better for the fit.

But your O-ring isn't dry, is it? It shouldn't be. There are silicone-based care products for O-rings and seals in general. I have one of the type used for scuba gear, but there are many. Search for "silicone-based lubrication for O-rings".