Store Sylphyo is a Low-Humidity Container?
I am wondering if it is a good idea to store my Sylphyo in a low-humidity environment.
I keep my 3D print filament in airtight bags with desiccant units that keep the humidity at around 10%. Easy and works great.
Given the array of issues I (and others) have had that seem to be correlated with moisture, might a 10% environment reduce these issues?
If this is a good idea, I can provide the specifics of the products I use for moisture control with my 3D print filament.
You're right. I did a little research on the web regarding the storage of circuit boards and electronic components and learned the basics pretty quickly: keep the parts dry or they will fail. Of course there are technical details, but I think as musicians we can simplify things and keep our electronic instruments dry with the same conscientiousness as we avoid drying out wooden instruments.
Which products do you use for your 3D printing material?
I print headjoints for my Breath Flute project in different colors and materials (PLA vs TPC/Copolyester), so I need to store them for a long time.
I keep each roll of filament in a separate, re-sealable (Zip-lock) poly bag with it's own renewable dehumidifier and a small individual hygrometer. These bagged filament rolls are grouped into clear 44-quart storage boxes.
More info on the individual components:
Poly Bags: I generally use 4 mil "poly" bags from Plymor or Uline. They are made of LPDE and Polyethylene, respectively. The 4 mil thickness feel reassuringly solid. The Plymor bags are on their store on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/12B315CE-97CA-472B-9026-DB8732D7F438 . Uline bags can be found at: https://www.uline.com/BL_211/Uline-4-Mil-Reclosable-Bags
Dehumidifier: I use Eva-Dry E-333 dehumidifiers. They convenient, have an indicator as to remaining capacity, and can be renewed by plugging them in for 18 hours (no more than that!). They bring the relative humidity down to 10-15%. The manufacturer's page is at https://www.eva-dry.com/product/e-333-renewable-dehumidifier/. They are available on Amazon at a discount.
Hygrometer: I use inexpensive EEEKit 56 mini hygrometers. They are no longer available, but an Amazon search for "EEEKit 56" produces lots of similar units.
Storage box: IRIS USA WSB-SD Ziploc WeatherShield 44 Quart Storage Box, Clear. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C882DVV/
So, possibly a similar setup using poly bags, or maybe a clear Lexan box of some sort ...
I do use a dedicated filament storage box / dispenser for filament that is being fed live into the printer. That specific box is by Polymaker and is here: https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-PolyBox-Filament-Filaments-Printing/dp/B075DBPY6F. However, for other ideas, search on Amazon for "3D Printer Filament Storage Box".
Thanks, now I can take a closer look and find a solution for myself.
@Peter-Ostry I have seen Shakuhachi players keep their instruments in a Lexan box with an open glass of water inside that keeps that humidity at around 50% (I was told), which apparently good for that bamboo-based instrument. Maybe something like that?
frank last edited by
you saw my reaction on Face book I think
repeat here ?
frank last edited by
@Clint Hi Clint
My replay from Facebook
Dependent where you leave the humidiy can be from 95 % just the standard air. In some areas 60% can be a humid day. Electronics are not affected that much, in low humidity, 10 20% van can have trouble with static electricity. I would not bother much.
In winter and cold area's humidity can get quiet low..
I remember from my computer design days
Lab tested at low humidity, HK 70% High for the was 95 while for others low humidity was 20%
Peter Ostry last edited by Peter Ostry
Here is the prototype of my low-humidity container, which is supposed to keep the Sylphyo protected and reasonably dry. Seems to work, the long-term test is still pending.
The case is from Ebay, it's built by a hobby carpenter for displaying model cars and trains, and is originally intended for horizontal use. I just treated the raw plywood with linseed oil varnish.
At both ends the manufacturer provides acrylic glass plates, additionally I inserted two small wooden boards with holes. I put the Sylphyo only dry in, nevertheless at the lower board a usual kitchen sponge cloth lies, in order to catch possible dripping from the instrument. The small faces of the acrylic compartments and wooden boards have gaskets that rub lightly against the large acrylic faceplate. In fact, the gaskets are slotted sheats of audio cables.
To put the Sylphyo in or take it out, I slide the front panel up. The mouthpiece has its holder right above the Sylphyo’s body to remind me not to put it in with the mouthpiece on. The USB cable goes into the box at the back.
The construction is pretty tight, though not airtight in the technical sense. I trust the microclimate. If it works, I will probably screw the case to the wall. I have to add that I don't live in a very humid climate (Austria, Central Europe). With wooden instruments, for example, we rather have problems not letting them dry out from room heating over the cold season.
I hope the Sylphyo will feel comfortable in its new home, until now it had to hang in a cloth bag on a shelf.
Wooden box with acrylic glass panes from Ebay: €70 ($76)
1 kg (2.2 lb) silica gel from Amazon: €20 ($22)
Two nice bowls for the desiccant from the kitchen supply store: €8 ($9)
The other material like small plywood boards, some screws and linseed oil varnish I had at home.
@Peter-Ostry Sweet! Looking forward to feedback on how this pans out ...
Love to hear input from @Laurent_AODYO or other Aodyo folks on this low-moisture direction ...
I've been playing out a lot lately and really pushing a lot of moisture through the instrument. I probably swab out 5 times a day. My Sylphyo "A" is still holding up with no ill effects. Sylphyo "B" still does not pair with the Link and may need to be looked at ...
First experience with this design:
The internal treatment with linseed oil varnish was environmentally welcome, but practically a stupid idea. Because of the stench, the part has been empty open for a week and still stinks. I have learned that in such an application you leave the wood raw inside or seal it with odorless paint.
When closed, the silica gel pearls in both bowls darken within three days. Maybe that's the varnish too, but I rather think wood is probably good to keep cigars moist, but not so much to keep Sylphyo's dry.
@Peter-Ostry Yes, Linseed takes a looooong time to dry.